La Roque Gageau on the Dordogne River
La Roque Gageac is on the list of 'most beautiful villages of the Dordogne'. It is 8 km south of Sarlat, on the Dordogne River. La Roque-Gageac is truly a picture postcard village set in a magnificent location.
Its row of attractive warm yellow sandstone riverside houses are squeezed between the Dordogne river and towering overhanging cliffs. La-Roque-Gageac is in my top three 'must see places' in the Dordogne region of France along with Sarlat and Beynac.
The medieval houses are crammed into any space they can find as they spread up the hill towards the troglodyte caves set in the cliffs above. Tourist visitor numbers in the summer can be excessive. Try to visit out of the school holidays. If you cannot do that aim to arrive very early in the morning or late in the afternoon when the coach tours are fewer. You also benefit from the warming effect of the early and late afternoon sun has on the yellow colour of the sandstone cliff and buildings.
The town council has built a car park bigger than La Roque-Gageac itself, to the east of the village. If you are travelling with young children pay particular attention to their safety when you walk along the riverside road. The pavement is narrow and in some places nonexistent. This is a busy main road and it squeezes between the houses and the river bank wall. There are facilities for RV campervans in the car park as well as a clean toilet block.
Along the river bank there are picnic benches that offer wonderful views of La Roque-Gageac nestled at the bottom of the cliff on the banks of the river Dordogne. I do not think I have ever picnicked in a more beautiful spot. Near the picnic benches are the moorings for the pleasure boats that take you up the river to view Beynac and the riverside chateaux of the Dordogne. The style of boats used are called 'Gabare' and are unique to this part of France. They were designed to transport goods to the coast along the shallow Dordogne river. Like Viking boats their keel is very flat.
If you have not brought along a picnic then find a cafe, sit in the sun, sip a beer or glass of wine and admire the magnificent dramatic setting La Roque-Gageac finds itself in. If you look up onto the cliff side you will notice that some of the houses have been built into the cliff side. These houses have extended the space they occupy by tunneling into the rock to produce extra rooms and warehouses. They are a bit like Dr Who's tardis in that they appear small on the outside but when you get inside they are deceptively large.
Further up the cliff you can see caves carved into the rock by locals who wanted storage space, housing and protection in times of war. Some are open to visitors. Access is via a steep set of steps which are not suitable for anyone who has a fear of heights. You have to pay a small entrance fee to visit these troglodyte dwellings. The expense is worth the great views. Children love exploring the troglodyte caves
Many visitors do not realise that there is more to La Roque-Gageac than the waterfront shops. Walk away from the cafe and head towards the Chateau. Unfortunately you cannot go into the Castle but take time to admire it close up. There is a road that goes up a steep incline near the castle. That is the start of the upper lane that leads to all the house built into the rock face. It is long and winding. It will take you back to the car park. (If you have difficulty climbing hills take the riverside road back to the car park).
The views are exhilarating and the architecture charming. Halfway along the path you come across castle style arches and vine covered fairy tale towers. As you get nearer the car park the lane takes you through a tropical garden planted into the base of the cliff. Palm trees, bamboo and banana plants transport you to a different continent. It is only possible to grow them in this location because the village is south facing and protected from north winds by the cliffs.
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